Deep in the pedestrian lanes of the Barrio de Santa Cruz, a 17th-century mansion has been kept close to what it was: a fountain courtyard at the centre, residential rooms arranged around it, artwork from the 15th to the 20th century on the walls. The family who runs it seats arriving guests with a glass of cava before anything else and hosts a classical guitar concert in the patio each evening. Rooms are finished in muted greens and greys with hand-painted wall panels and travertine bathrooms. The Cathedral is a three-minute walk. There is nothing between you and the old city.