The road ends before the guest house. Douar Samra sits at around 1,800 metres in the hamlet of Tamatert, a short walk up from where vehicles stop, with a donkey to carry the bags. It was built from scratch using stone, earth and timber in the local method, and rooms in the main house have no electricity at all: fireplaces, recessed candles, wool blankets, a hot water bottle under the covers. Meals are communal, cooked from the garden and the market and eaten at low tables by firelight. The Toubkal trails start three minutes above the door.