Set in a restored 19th-century corner building in Madrid's Salamanca district, Tótem feels more like stepping into a private members' club than a hotel. The mood shifts from dark and moody downstairs, with parquet floors, crushed velvet and brass accents, to bright, pared-back guest rooms with black marble bathrooms and works by local artists. Hermosos y Malditos, the all-day restaurant and cocktail bar named after the Fitzgerald novel, pulls a loyal crowd of locals. Designer boutiques, Retiro Park and the Prado are all within walking distance: Salamanca at its most stylish.