Bogotá's museums and markets open the trip, then a longboat heads into the jungle to reach Caño Cristales, the "liquid rainbow", where plants on the riverbed turn the river five colours during a narrow seasonal window. In coffee country, a Willys Jeep climbs through the Cocora Valley, where 60-metre wax palms look straight from the pages of The Lorax and a private picnic waits on a hillside with no other tourists in sight. Canyoning and colonial towns fill the rest: ten nights that run from the remote to the well-travelled.